Impenetrable forest, mouse-like Iroquois conics, karst bottomlessness - the project "Wild paths" in Nalibok Forest

The largest forest in Belarus, the Nalibok Forest, is not only about the grandeur of the green space of 240,000 hectares, which any country in the world will envy. This is about the lands untouched by civilization, and about the descendants of tarpans living here, who have become a symbol of the revival of pristine nature, and about the sanatorium for Mayer deaf people. We went to the republican landscape reserve "Naliboksky" to plunge into the world of relic forests and find out who lives freely in these vast expanses.

From the capital to the reserve hand to hand - 65 kilometers. The neighborhood of wildlife and the metropolis is a miracle in itself. The "Nalibok" stretches on the border of Minsk and Grodno regions on an area of 86.9 thousand hectares. The natural location is impressive both in scope and status, being a key botanical territory of Europe and an important territory for birds. Within Belarus it is the largest forest wetland complex.

Deputy Director of the reserve Sergey Tumel meets us at the starting point of the ecotrope "Belokorets" in the Volozhinsky district of the Minsk region. And while we, after a noisy track, master the quarter of unusual silence, Sergei Ivanovich gives out the main thing that you can not see from the go: - Naliboka Forest is a real miracle of nature. Almost all biotopes of Belarus are collected here in miniature. A variety of types of forest areas: pine trees and spruce trees, mixed, black leaves, oak trees, meadows, swamps. Numerous streams and rivers pass through the forest like veins, creating special conditions for rare plants and animals on the territory. The reserve houses more than 50 species of animals listed in the Red Book of Belarus. We have a full composition of the “big European five” of Red Bookers: bison, brown bear, lynx, badger, hazel sleeper. By the way, the brown bear recently returned to these places after a hundred-year pause. Notes that over the past five years, the tourist flow is only increasing - counting for thousands of travelers. There are two eco-routes at the top of demand: Syabrynsky Crossroads and Belokorets, the latter is equipped for people with disabilities. All for a comfortable acquaintance with wildlife, to touch and not to harm. We dive into the twilight of the velvet forest. Outside the SUV window, monumental pines flash, artistically dissipating the sun’s rays. Boron is replaced by a deaf malachite tree. We only turn our heads after the tips of Sergei Tumel: the deer jumped out, the green woodpecker flew from tree to tree..

The deeper into the wilderness, the stronger the feeling - got into the real jungle. The undulating primer in places narrows so that, even a motorcyclist appears, we will not miss. And when we get to the swampy quarter, we hold our fingers with a cross: at least to steer. Sergey Ivanovich does not even laugh at our wariness:

Sergei Tumel. 80% of the forest is an impassable forest, where it is impossible to move without training and equipment. Even experienced specialists alone do not go to such remote areas, where it is easy to meet a wolf, a lynx, a bear. We are in such wilds today and do not plan - we are on the way to the tarpans.

Exhale lightly. To meet a herd of wild horses or a pack of wolves – there is still a difference. Even sitting in the car... We’ve just been in more often – and whoops, as at the click of our fingers, a window opens into the boundless meadow space. The specialist frowns:

- I don't think I'll see our conics. Blind men pester them. So they run like the wind, driving away those bloodsuckers. You can't guess where you'll meet our tarpans. Yeah, there they are, across the meadow. Free konicas-"lawn mowers" More recently, the reserve “Nalibok” was known only as the “capital” of wolves. A stable population of predators living in these forests, made it an official symbol of the forest. But in recent years, the focus has shifted to the descendants of tarpans.

In 2019, a little more than 150 heads of semi-wild tarpan-shaped horses of the Konic breed were brought to the forest, for which numerous tourists come here. Until recently, it was possible to see them in Belarus only here. But now the conics are settled in other reserves of the country.

To observe this free beauty in the "Nalibok" towers are installed. We also have a lucky chance not only to admire the nomadic life of the herd from above, but also, together with a specialist, to find ourselves in an acceptable safe proximity to the maned representatives of wildlife. Small, stocky, sturdy. Mousey, ash-gray, suits in most cases. Many people have manes under Iroquois, as if they worked their own horse master. The dark stripe along the back is a tarpan belt, a characteristic feature.

It seemed that when strangers appeared, they rushed far away. It wasn't here. It's like nothing's happened. Except that the leaders, the leaders of the harems, slightly retreated to assess the situation. But the kids came to us. “Walk, baby,” Sergei Ivanovich trembles on the mane of one of the most curious. Noses thrust, ears poked. Listen to what they're saying.

- We restored this meadow for bison as a buffer zone so that they did not encroach on collective farm fields, Sergei Tumel goes to the essence. But in order to keep the surrounding floodplain in perfect order, tarpan-shaped horses were required, which, unlike other herbivorous animals, eat coarse vegetation like horn, reed. In fact, conics work as lawn mowers. In the warm seasons, they produce their own food, and in the cold they eat at the equipped feeding grounds of the reserve. I will say this: in the Naliboka Forest, the Tarpans are good and at ease. Nor are these forests new to them. 600 years ago, their ancestors lived here. Since 2019, from 150 goals with a slight increase to 250 conics. In a year we are born 20-35 foals. While we are standing nearby, even the leaders get used to us, returning to ordinary business. Begin to fix family disputes, not shy of strangers. It seems that the males have accumulated questions about the ladies, which can only be solved in an ungulates. At such times, it is better to observe nature from the tower. Wild morals have never been abolished.

The next point of great interest is Dead Lake. Perfectly round mirror in the forest frame. Almost in the middle of the forest. The only one within the reserve. Visiting people is strictly limited. Sergey Tumel explains why people do not go to this picturesque corner: - This is one of the habitats of the West European subspecies of deaf person - deaf person Mayer. In neighboring countries, the bird has almost disappeared from the wild. There are about 400-500 individuals in Belarus. The largest population is just in Nalibok Forest. What good is the territory for a secluded grouse life, we clarify for ourselves one or two times. Complete deafness, swampy approaches (and we had to slap on the quagmire), pine trees rise above the water, disinfecting the air with their phytoncides, and grinds this total sterility fragrant bagulant, which has no equal in purifying space. According to popular belief, he also points the way to the treasures. Sergey Tumel does not give a distraction:

- Not close to the water. Around the quagmire. You could go down. Lake Karst, formed as a result of the collapse of the land. Trying to measure its depth. Somewhere the pole went five or six meters. And somewhere there are wells through which the stick simply flew, without reaching the bottom. There is nothing alive in this lake. That's why they call him Dead.

Away we make a mini-pause for tea drinking from Naliboka herbs: linden, thyme, chamomile, ivan tea, mint. Sergey Ivanovich hospitably prepared a thermos with a local hot drink. Honestly, I have never had a better drink of tea. In deep places I want to stay. But no, Sergey Tumel hastens:

- There is an opportunity to look at Meyer's deaf ears. In the wild, you will see them only when males are current, attracting females. By the way, during his marriage ritual, the deaf Mayer, in addition to clicking his beak, makes a sound very similar to the cotton of a cork flying out of a bottle of champagne. But this can only be heard in the spring. A nursery for the reproduction of grouse birds on the territory of the reserve was created in 2016 to increase the population of the endangered subspecies of deaf in artificial conditions. For a rare bird there is a whole complex of comfortable apartments, where everything is made in forest design for the usual comfortable nesting on the ground. How bird life proceeds, 24 by 7 is tracked by a video surveillance system. It's all right. Deaf people, of course, are handsome. Brutal, blue-black. Not even in the mating season are good. Scroll down the snags in thoughtfulness. Meanwhile, graceful females, inconspicuous in their gray plumage, worry about the younger generation - the chicks appeared in late July. With us, the workers of the nursery for the baby prepare lunch, cut boiled chicken eggs with greens. Joke:

- Add sour cream - and you can eat yourself. It's not like raising chickens. Here, care is required many times more. We blow the dust away so that the chicks grow stronger and stand on the wing. It's like a sanatorium. The bird is wild, delicate, requires special care. We want to preserve the population and give it strength so that it can return to the wild, home. Naliboki do not let go We are enchanted by Naliboki Forest. Not everyone has seen it. Behind the scenes were the historical chronicles of the thicket, its mystical secluded places. Vassily Shakun, the owner of the agricultural estate "Nalibok cornflowers", in the village of Bialokorets, undertakes to explain what the true magic of attraction is: - Remember, as Vladimir Korotkevich wrote in his historical story "The Wild Hunt of King Stakh", the pushcha are God's gardens. Everything here is in harmony, balance, in the reasonable coexistence of nature and man. You permeate this state, and the Naliboki don't let go anymore. Vasily Vladimirovich is from here. For decades he worked for the forestry industry, continuing his father’s work. By the way, the total experience of the “forest” dynasty of the Shakunov family is more than 130 years. After retirement in the parental house together with his wife Maria Pavlovna substantiated the farmstead. Admitted:

- In recent years, they come to us in Naliboka Forest from different cities and countries. Everything here is: beauty, and silence, and activity to the liking. At least in the forest for mushrooms and berries, even for river rafting. The main thing is to be alone with nature and yourself. These are precious moments for modern man. Until mid-October, tourists can listen to the roar of deer in the Pripyatsky National Park

The national park "Pripyatsky" of the Gomel region offers autumn excursions, during which you can listen to the roar of deer and become an eyewitness to the spectacular mating games. During the race, males fight for the attention of females, defending their superiority in a duel with an opponent. You can see emotional battles even in broad daylight. The National Park organizes excursions accompanied by guides, which will help to find the best points for observation and capture unique moments. Races on the natural relief of "Babulina Cossacks" will be held in Grodno Pyshka on October 10 - 11

October 10 - 11 in the village of Pyshki Grodno district will be the traditional autumn trail "Babulina Kazki". The program includes daily distances for adult track and field athletes with a length of 5, 10 and 20 kilometers, as well as a children's race. For the participants, a night trail with flashlights for one and five kilometers was prepared. These starts in the picturesque terrain invariably attract both experienced trailrunners and beginners.